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- Stainless
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Folk;
After lurking on this forum for quite a while, I decided to pick up bladesmith's S13 mill. It seems very nice, and came with the angle table, fixed table, high speed head, and the fixed 40 taper non-quill head.To make the non-quill head go, I need the 40 taper arbor and drive gear, so if anyone else has one of these to spare [img]smile.gif[/img] . Otherwise, it's off to Scaublin.
It is a metric machine with changeable DRO(accu-rite) and luckily came with a 1' arbor for horizontal (whew).
There seems to be very little wear anywhere, but some stiffness on the x-axis. The prior owner(not Bladesmith) seems to have tightened the gibs up way too much for my taste.
I haven't turned it on yet, as it seems to be setup for 380. There is a small transformer in the control box which has multiple taps in and 220 out (for the relays I assume). I have moved the tap to 220V. Each motor has a diagram on the inside of the cover showing how to change 380Wye to 220Delta
by moving links around. I will probably do this later tonight, but would like the confirmation of
someone in the group first. I really don't want to mess this up
I am not sure of the age of the machine. It is gray with a hammertone on some parts. Under the gray, it was clearly green before. It is the new style with the single point oiler, and the serial number is in the low 300000. Could this be newer than Don's? No year indicator anywhere.
SO, the adventure starts, now all I need is the slotting head, quill 40 head, and dividing attachments (yeah right). I am told these can take years of looking if ever found at all. Plus, I have no money left
Will try to post pictures later this evening.
Any advice/hints/tips relative to this machine greatly appreciated.
p.s. I have decided to start this new thread in the Deckel/euro mills forum rather than continue the Schaublin thread, as per Don's request.
Jon P. - Titanium
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Jon,
First off, congratulations on the purchase of the 13. I haven't had any time on one, but I have had the pleasure of looking one over once. They seem very nice.
If a schematic will help, let me know. I have one that I can email you. I also have a service manual, but it is in french. There is a section, nonetheless, on the electrical package of the machine. A very quick look showed the connections required for the different voltages.
Let me know if you need any of this.
Regards,
Alan - Stainless
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Alan;
Thanks much. I could probably use the schematic. I have a copy of the service manual in English (thankfully). Not much text, but good mechanical diagrams.
regards,
Jon P. - Titanium
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Hi Jon,
I would like to get a copy of that manual, if possible, for the CD (dare I even bring that subject up right now!)...
As for the schematic... The service manual is probably better than the schematic, but if you have a high speed connection, I can send it to you. It is about 2.5Meg large.
--Alan - Stainless
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Alan;
I didn't know you had Schaublin stuff as well on your CD.
I might actually scan it in for the new website if
deckelnut want's it (and no-one else gets there before me). It is itself a copy, though a very clean one. If you want, you can download it from there? Based on the castings, I would say it is for a slightly older machine.
Either way, I have no objection to it being on the CD.
As far as the schematic, the manual doesn't have one at all, so it would be useful, and I have a high-speed connection so no prob on 2.5 Meg.
regards,
Jon P. - Titanium
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Actually I have quite a lot of manuals not on the CD. I simply ran out of space. The plan always was to eventually made a DVD. Doing so, however, takes a lot more time to burn and the cost was quite a bit more (not as big a concern now).
Historically I've liked to do the scanning myself because I usually have done it at 600DPI. But I will pull it down from the site. I'm burned out right now.
I'll send you the schematic in a bit...
--Alan - Stainless
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Alan;
No problem. The elctrical box is essentially the same as an HLVH or even my Okuma for that matter. Just current sense protection relays for the motors.
It will be a while on a scannig job like this! 600 dpi is no problem for me, buty I am wondering what the standard will be for euro.. .com?
Given the earlier discussion, it's a good idea not to get to worked up over posts on PM. A lot of good info/help out there, but some people get overexcited.
regards,
Jon P. - Titanium
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Jon,
I was having problems with GMAIL last night, but it seems to have gotten fixed... I sent you the schematic this morning. If you don't see it in your INBOX, let me know...
Regards,
Alan - Peter from HollandDiamond
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jpevner
You have bought yourselve a great machine I know of some people having rather a Schaublin 13 than a Deckel fp1 because they are more accurate
But are you sure it is a 40 taper I have had several Schaublin 13 All with 30 taper And for as far as I know Schaublin has not made a 30 taper quill head Only the high speed drilling head with collets - Stainless
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Peter;
Thanks. I haven't powered it yet (this weekend) bit it looks good so far. The horizontal arbor is definitely ISO 40 and the non-quill vertical is ISO 40 as well. The high-speed head is ER-20. I need the arbor to drive the non-quill vertical head.
The serial number is 309612, so it is relatively recent. As you can see in the picture, the originbal paint was green, but it has been oversprayed with grey. The only thing it seems to need is a bit of cosmetic work on the base. I think I will stick with grey, and a bit of touchup on some of the hammertone. The tables and the heads (not pictured) look virtually new.
My document copies show the ISO 40 and the ISO 30 sold at same time. Earlier, I think it was ISO 30 or Morse.
And the back, for someone who hasn't seen the insides.
It came with some documentation copies, and I hope to scan it, and perhaps it will wind up on the new website and Wrench'd cd compilation.
regards,
Jon P. - Peter from HollandDiamond
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Well iI know this is an older version because the handwheel for the y-axel is on top The later version had them on the side
I cannot help you with the arbor.but look for an arbor that can be adapted The gear is not a problem as long as it is a standard Modul size and not hardened - Stainless
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Peter;
I think the handwheel can be moved ro either side or the top, at the user's convenience. I think Don moved his around. I wish I knew the specs for the gear, but I think Schaublin may have used a strange pressure angle?
Jon P.
p.s. I have seen that picture before. Is that one you have for sale? Do you have the serial number?
regards,
Jon P. - Stainless
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You should ask John, who post under 'milflyer' on the Euro lathes forum about the driving cog issue.
I seem to remember he faced the same probem a while ago with his own Schaublin 13. - Stainless
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That's a good idea, I think I read that post, and he found someone who had one locally.
regards,
Jon P. - Peter from HollandDiamond
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Jon
I have a look for the serialnr tomorrow and also if the handwheel can be moved Thats new to me, I never thought of it
And yes this one is for sale like almost all my machines I even have customers in the USA I have shipped a Deckel FP1 to Los Angeles a Schaublin 102VM to Canada and some tooling and accesoiries to Illinois
I am running this bussines for 4 years now and never regreted a single day - Titanium
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Jon,
Nice looking machine... You must be happy.... What drive gear are your referring to? Is this an internal gear? - Stainless
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Peter;
I don't need another one just yet! I sometimes see the same web picture on many euro sites, and wonder who really owns the machine?
Maybe you can pick up a sale in the US via this forum. I imagine shipping is costly though. I think you were asking 6000 Eu for the machine? That doen't sound unreasonable at least to me.
regards,
Jon P. - Stainless
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wrench
For each of the heads, there is an arbor that drives it. It fits into the 40 taper horizontal head, and has a gear which drives the attachment. I believe it is different for each attachment. Schaublin has them, though for a really hefty price, so I am seeing if 'anyone knows anyone'. I believe they are somewhat non-standard, though I don't know the specs. I have the one for my high-speed head, ut not the one for the non-quill 40 taper head. I'm pretty sure they are different.
Jon P. - MilflyerSenior Member
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Hi all, just caught up on this thread as I've been fighting with my lathe over the last few days
Firstly the age has nothing to do with whether the 'Y' axis hand wheel is left, top or right ... the position is inter-changeable to suit the operator's needs
As for the gear ... Ouch, I was extremely lucky but in the worst case a gear is around US$300 - 350 and the matching arbor around US$300
I also have three versions of the Schaublin 13 User manuals, an early late 50's - 60's one, a late 60's to early 70's and a mid to late 70's one. Basically on the latter two the large A3 schematics have part number changes. If you look at the data block (bottom right) there will be the exact date the plan was produces like 11 02 66 and this will be the same in most cases for all machines but just below and left of this will be a series of five figure numbers which refer to the number of amendments to the original plan.
Hope this helps ...
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Peter ... Any luck with the Phillips DRO Manual yet for my Schaublin 13 ??
Thanks
John
Schaublin 102-VM Screwcutting Lathe: Operator's Instruction and Service Manual. This is the rare edition with some Parts as Dimensioned and Sectional Drawings.The. User's Guides, Owner's Manuals, Service Manuals, Instructions Books - The largest database - Immediate download or research services. Sixis 101 Aciera F1 indexer Schaublin Deckel, 1947 Aciera AG Maschinenfabrik Swiss Print Ad Advert. Swiss Print Ad Advert Suisse Publicite Schweiz, Schaublin Aciera Habegger W 20 collets [PDF] 2016 Can Am Outlander Service Manual.pdf Den tukker manuals - metalworker aciera F4 manual 1958: jpg-set (13.0 Mb) ole: 0164: F5: info: aciera F5.
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